An Easter Sunday at Barasoain church: the cradle of the Philippine republic

This year, I spent Easter at Barasoain church in Malolos, Bulacan. This historical marker has been on my travel list for a long time now but my recent travels up north doesn't permit a stop at Malolos. Now, with a weekend to spare-and an important Catholic occasion to observe-I found last week's Easter Sunday the opportune moment to finally visit it.

I spent the day appreciating Barasoain, not only as place of worship, but also as a witness to the historical events that happened within its walls over a century ago.

Barasoain church's early history and architecture

The Barasoain church, also called Our lady of Mount Carmel Parish, was first built in the shores of Malolos river as a hermitage made of bamboo and nipa. It was Bangkal's (the old name of Barasoain) town chapel. Over time, it was moved to its present location in Paseo del congresso street near downtown Malolos. It underwent many renovations because of fires and earthquakes; with its present design being credited to architect Miguel Magpayo and former parish priest, Juan Giron who commissioned it in 1885.

The church of Barasoain features Baroque architecture, with hints of Neo-classical and Romanesque influences. The exterior Baroque elements are most noticeable in the curves in its facade; The columns that divides its front add the neo-classical touch. The design of its bell tower on the other hand is the Romanesque feature.

The church is mostly made of adobe, concrete, and wood, exported back then from the town of Meycauayan.

The church's interior demonstrate the depth of its Baroque influence. There is the nave, designed with marble of black and white pattern. On the side, there two aisles adorned with historical markers and religious sculptures.

These three parts are divided by wooden, arched columns that reach into the altar. Parts of the interior: the columns, ceiling, and retablo are adorned with sinuous copper sculptures, and together with the ornate chandeliers, they create an atmosphere of harmony-and prayer-that befits Our lady of Mt. Carmel, the town's patroness.

A witness to a nation's birth

Months after Emilio Aguinaldo proclaimed Philippine independence on Kawit, Cavite in June 12, 1898, The Philippine-American war ensued. This made Aguinaldo move his revolutionary government to Malolos, Bulacan. The nearby Malolos cathedral served as his presidential palace. The Barasoain church on the other hand served as his government's congress hall.

It was in Barasoain that delegates from Philippine provinces drafted the first Philippine constitution famously known as the Malolos constitution. From September 1898 to January 1899, the walls of Barasoain saw heated exchanges among lawyers, doctors, farmers, and lay Filipinos on how the newly concepted Philippine republic is to be ordered.

A Malolos constitution memorial plate.
Delegates include Antonio Luna, Pedro Paterno, and Gregorio Aglipay.

The Malolos congress completed the constitution on January 21, 1899. The Philippine republic was soon inaugurated and Emilio Aguinaldo, the first Philippine president, took his oath within the grounds of Barasoain.

A statue of Emilio Aguinaldo in the church's patio.

The escalation of the Philippine-American war caused Aguinaldo to move the republic's capital yet again. This time, he moved to Nueva Ecija. Abandoned, the town of Malolos and the church of Barasoain was claimed by the Americans on March 1899. After the war, the church was brought back to to the local priests and it remains under their care up to this day.

The Barasoain church today

From the time of the Malolos congress, the Barasoain church has gained cultural significance for all Filipinos. It was declared a national shrine by former president Ferdinand Marcos Sr. on August 1973. The 13th Philippine president, Joseph Estrada, took his oath here, and Philippine bills also featured the church on both the past P10 peso and the present P200 peso paper bills.

The convent adjoining the church now serves as a museum that details the Malolos congress using dioramas, texts, and photos. Preserved documents and a jeep-claimed to be Aguinaldo's carrier-is also on display. All these are managed by the National historical commission.

A Kalayaan tree at the church's foreground.

In its patio, a so-called Kalayaan tree can be seen. It was planted to commemorate a same tree in the Malolos cathedral that is said to date back to the Malolos congress. Today, both trees stand as symbols of resilience. They are reminders of Filipino's yearning for self-governance and freedom.

Conclusion

It was fascinating to see how Barasaoain, a modest-sized church, can hold such great cultural and religious significance. It is an architectural testament to how deep religion and history is intertwined in our country, and how these paired perspectives form our identity as Filipinos. It truly befits its title as the cradle of Philippine democracy and as the most important religious building in the Philippines.

My easter spent on this church was, indeed, filled with religious fervor-and rich history-that allowed me to know the formation of the Philippine republic, as told by an enduring witness that is the Barasoain church itself.

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