Of views and gears: Exploring Marilaque

Marilaque, a popular, if not the most famous, destination for riders who reside in Metro Manila. Since its completion a decade ago-effectively connecting NCR with the province of Infanta-it has become a landmark for travelers, especially for those who go on two-wheels, who considers it both as a "playground" to test ride skills and a place to take a breather from the busy metro.

This increased regard has allowed tourism to grow in the provinces that it covers, namely: Marikina, Rizal, Laguna, and Quezon. Numerous cafes, restaurants, and nature preserves has opened up within it in the last few years, allowing more people to discover the beauty of Sierra Madre

It is not without blight however, as its winding roads have also seen shares of fatality because of reckless riders. Nevertheless, travelers still flock to this mountain path. The well-paved roads, the sparse traffic, and the beautiful views are enough for many to risk going into technical terrains just to see what lies within this Marilaque.

I've been to Marilaque before but only within Tanay, to visit the Treasure mountain campsite. I also went by car at the time so I did not have an open experience of maneuvering into its twisting road segments. 

Riding with Yamaha Sniper MXI 150

This time that I'm on a motorcycle, I'll go further than Tanay and into Quezon, to experience Marilaque in full. This is my motorcycle travel series, Of views and gears. 

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Ride Overview

For starters, let me share more information about Marilaque. From its starting point in Marikina, it spans 117.5 kilometer up to its end in Infanta. It is officially named Marcos highway but was dubbed Marilaque by locals and by riders as an acronym for the provinces that it traverses. Now, its colloquial name is widely accepted since its former name causes confusion with other roads like the one that leads to Baguio.

Courtesy: google maps

I found a lot of suggested routes online and most of them starts in Marikina, then loops back into Rizal by going through Real, Quezon and Famy, Laguna. From my home in Las Piñas, my own starting point will be in Antipolo, at the front of Cogeo Village. From there, I'll be riding straight to Infanta, back into Rizal also through Real and Famy, then back home through the C6 road in Taguig.

My route preview. Courtesy: google maps

I estimated that this ride will take at least 12 hours. It could be less depending on my pace but since it was a Saturday when I went, I expected congestions in the busy centers of Taguig, Taytay, and Antipolo, especially as I made my way into the start of the loop.

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From Las Piñas to Antipolo 

What could have been a 1 hour ride to Antipolo became 2 because of dense traffic in the Taguig area. Fortunately, the traffic lessened in Taytay, allowing me to get to Antipolo without further interruptions.

Antipolo arch (12:09 PM)

My long drawn ride throughout Taguig and Taytay ended when I arrived at the start of my loop in front of Cogeo Village in Antipolo.

The early landmarks of Marilaque

It was a different scene when I entered Marilaque. The 6 lane road along the Antipolo segment was a breather from the packed city highways that I crossed earlier. The only public transport that roams Marilaque are tricycles and jeepneys that allow access to the many Rizal barangays in its vicinity. There are no trucks-no buses-or other public transports that can line up in the highway and interrupt the ride.

The Puting Bato Marble Quarry (12:38 PM)

There is an eye-catching landmark at this early part of Marilaque. Just before entering Sierra Madre, travelers are greeted with a sight of the Puting Bato, a marble quarry site at the outskirts of Antipolo. It's open to tourists, who can either hike into its 120 feet peak or explore it from within to see its limestone formations.

Boso-Boso highland resort (12:50 PM)

In Sierra Madre, the first notable landmark is the Boso-Boso highland resort, a popular family vacation center in Antipolo. Though mainly intended for group accommodations, the resort's restaurant, Cafe Cristina, is open for day travelers like riders or bikers who seek to enjoy great views while resting.

Marilaque (1:04 PM)

It is beyond Boso-Boso that the thrilling curves of Marilaque began. The road narrowed down to 2 paths, divided by thick yellow lines indicating that overtaking at this point is strictly prohibited. The traffic, too, lessened even more, the remaining of which are mostly comprised of motorcycle riders. 

Palo Alto marker (1:10 PM)

At a certain point, I came across a notable site for riders: The Palo alto landmark. Originally the front gate of the nearby Sta. Lucia residences, it has became a rest stop for riders because of the photographers or mga maniniyot that gather here. During my stop however, I only happened upon fellow riders resting. There were no photographers in sight.

As I continued, the road soon included ascents and segments that require careful steering. Segments like the Big C and the Devil's corner as riders call them, are ill-reputed because of the many accidents that happens in them. Or to be more precise-because of undisciplined riders that treat them as a playpark.

The famous curved segments of Marilaque

Fortunately, the local government of Rizal has became keen in regulating dangerous activities within Marilaque, posting up more signs reminding riders that "Marilaque is not a racetrack," and that a speed limit of 50 Km/h must be observed. When I passed by Big C and the Devil's corner, there were no crowds. There were only a handful of riders idling and photographers on benches. It was a peaceful scene contrary to what I expected.

Stop over (1:15 PM)

Beyond Devil's corner lies the farthest that I've been in Marilaque: Sitio Maysawa, where the Treasure mountain campsite is located. This part of Tanay is filled with campsites and cabin resorts. Other notable spots in Sito Maysawa includes the Fresno Agro forestry campsite and the jump-off point of Mt. Kulis.

Treasure mountain signage in Sitio Maysawa (1:20 PM)

Various restaurants and cafes can also be found in this part of Marilaque. There's the Martessem resort cafe, Kabsat restaurant, and the Cafe Katerina where most riders flock. 

Lunch break at Le Cafe (1:50 pm)

I chose to take a break in a cafe called Le Cafe, that had caught my attention because of its simple al fresco beside the highway. They offer pastries, teas and coffees, and a selection of grilled meals at reasonable prices. The view was great, too. The Laguna De Bay was visible from its vantage point, together with a panoramic sight of the Tanay highlands. 

Courtesy: google maps

The last major part of Tanay before entering Laguna is Barangay Sampaloc. It is ideal to rest or gas up here since the road into Sta. Maria, Laguna, and Infanta leads deeper into Sierra Madre. There won't be any gas stations until Infanta but I've heard that there are locals who sell gasoline along the way. It's better to stock up though because there's no assurance that these local stations are open. 

Landmarks in Sta. Maria, Laguna and Infanta, Quezon

There's an interesting mountain feature before Sta. Maria, Laguna. The locals call it lihim na lagusan, a dramatic ravine located just before Sta. Maria's viewing deck. It was indeed picturesque, and I noticed a few riders taking photos with it as the backdrop. 

Sta. Maria Viewing Deck (3:09 PM)

It was in the viewing deck that I rested. It contains the Sta. Maria marker and gives another great view of the surrounding mountain ranges. The road beyond this point is a 20 to 30 minutes stretch of mountain path up until the welcome arch of Infanta. This arch is another landmark for riders because it's the kilometer 90 point of Marilaque.

Infanta, Quezon marker (3:40 PM)

Located in the arch's vicinity is a park called Little Baguio, a tourist spot that is gaining attention not only from riders, but other kind of travelers as well. 

Aside from their garden that is inspired by Baguio, tourists can also enjoy spring bathing, accommodations, and dining. They also offer camping for travelers who want to stay the night in the open.

Jariel's peak (4 PM)

A few kilometers from Little Baguio is the famous Jariel's peak. I noticed it instantly because of the many motorcycles parked at its fore. From what I've read, they serve exotic food here like rabbit, sheep, and the bestseller-sizzling mountain snail. They also serve beverages and they also have accommodations. But I would say that it's the view from it's 2,331 ft. above sea level vantage point that keep riders from visiting this place. As their motto says, it's truly an "oasis on top of a mountain."

Most riders end their Marilaque ride in Jariel's peak because beyond it, there are only a handful of tourist sites, most of which are private campgrounds. 

The remaining road into Infanta town proper is another stretch of empty mountain roads with scenic views and high elevation. At a certain point, fog gathered along the highway and it made my ride thrilling.

Courtesy: google maps

There are two notable bridges at this point of Marilaque: the Querocep and Pinlac bridge. Back in 2015, Querocep bridge was damaged by a landslide and remained unpassable for 3 years until its re-opening in 2018. Now, it is open to all kinds of traffic. It even allows entry into a nearby waterfall, allowing tourists a dip into natural spring waters.  

From Pinlac bridge, the next part of Infanta is Magsaysay, a barangay that gives a great view of Agos River. 

Magsaysay viewdeck (4:25 PM)

Most parts of Magsaysay are untouched forest that I've heard is gaining popularity for hikers. I stopped for a while at the Magsaysay view deck and there really was no other establishments in sight. There was just the Agos river, the serene mountains, and the few fellow riders that passes by. 

Agos river as seen in Infanta, Quezon

The Agos river reaches all the way to Rizal and flows out into Polillo strait. It is famous because of its riverside campsites and trails. It is also main food source of the Dumagat people that lives within Sierra Madre.

Marilaque endpoint (4:48 PM)

I'm at the end of Marilaque as I passed over Barangay Gumian. A marker, another notable site for riders, divides the way into the Infanta town proper and the way to Real, Quezon. I thought about going further into Infanta but I realized that I still have to cover Real, Famy, and Rizal on my way back.

End of the ride: From Real, Quezon and Famy, Laguna to Rizal

Brgy. Capalong in Real, Quezon (5:14 PM)

I looped to my original path to Famy-Real-Infanta road and stopped by Brgy. Capalong (still in Infanta) instead, to catch a view of the Polillo strait and Polillo Island.

It was my first time to see the eastern shores of the Luzon mainland. There were resorts and restaurants along the coastlines but I noticed some parts that are prohibited even for tourists. They were fish sanctuaries that the local government preserve, and is common in the coasts of Infanta all the way into Real, Quezon.

Viewing the polillo strait (5:30 PM)

I wanted to stay longer at the shores of Infanta, but the day was coming to close. As I made my way into Real and Famy, Laguna through the equally sinuous Famy-Real-Infanta road, I noticed a lack of streetlights, which did not help since my ride home was at nightfall. It took me an hour long ride into dim and twisty roads before I reached the town of Famy.

 

Famy, Laguna Red horse Marker (6:28 PM)

From the Famy marker, a right turn led me back to Rizal, passing through the towns of Mabitac, Pililla-with its separate set of winding roads-Morong, Binangonan, Angono and finally, Taytay, where I crossed the Barkadahan bridge to get back to C6. 

Clockwise: Jollibee Pililla, Rizal, Binangonan town marker, Mabitac town marker.

I wasn't able to take a lot of photos on my way home because of the dim views, and partly because I did not want to get stalled. I got home in Las Piñas by 9:30 PM, 30 minutes short of what I expected but overall,  I felt like I rode for 12 hours and more.

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Ride summary

My ride through Marilaque is a thrilling, relaxing, and enjoyable adventure. The road is filled with good sights that are a perfect remedy for the weariness of the city. Its mountain segments; twisty roads and gradual ascents all the way into Infanta, Quezon are great for those who want to practice riding skills. I just encourage riders to be keen while riding in this highway, and always maintain their safety over risky leisure. 

As Marilaque continues to be popular, I hope that nature will still has its share and that all kinds of travelers-riders and drivers alike-will be responsible visitors to preserve the beauty of Rizal, Infanta, and the Sierra Madre mountain range. 

P.S. Don't forget to gas up in full before starting a Marilaque loop.

Total ride time: 11 hours and 30 minutes

Odometer before the ride: 12, 800 KM

Odometer after the ride: 13, 055 KM

Total KM: 255 KM

Note: The photo I used for the Palo Alto marker is borrowed because I wasn't able to take a photo of the site during my trip.